Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Miriam Haskell jewelry


In the heat and humidity of yesterday, I ventured out to the library and took out a beautiful book about Miriam Haskell and her jewelry company.  She founded the company in 1926 in NYC and it still exists today because it makes the finest costume jewelry.
Shortly after opening her company, Frank Hess, a window dresser from Macy's, joined her and provided the company with artistic flair...he was a great colorist!  Most credit Miriam with the business savy and Frank  with the creative talent.  Frank was a very private man who maintained tight control over his designs and work.  He showed up for work everyday in a top hat with a silver tipped cane (I would have hired him for that alone). He even approved the way that the employees dressed in the showroom....I guess Abercrombie & Fitch took note.
It was very interesting to read about the craft of jewelry making as well as how an excellent company survives during hard times such as World War II when they could not use metal.  Another designer for the company who made outstanding jewelry was Richard Clark.
I must admit that I am quite surprised at how large most of the pieces are..some might find them garish but some are truly beautiful.  The company produced an A line, B line and C line....rather like the stocking of  retail stores today.  As a jewelry company, it has a fascinating history and it also provides a great business model. Its legacy is that the best quality and adept business skills allows a company to produce a treasure trove of magnificent jewelry.  Miriam Haskell's health started to fail during the late 1940's and she sold  her company to her brother in 1950.
The large, opulent pieces the company was famous for seem to be having a resurgence today. Bib necklaces, multi-layered chains, bold bracelets, huge cocktail rings....they are all the rage today.  I wonder if in difficult financial times the sheer weight of jewelry makes one feel a tad more secure. Women in many cultures collected jewels as a way to measure their worth.  Chanel's motto was dress simply but wear lots of jewelry.  We all want to feel beautiful, secure and perhaps even regal.  In trying financial times...jewelry provides us with the power to transport ourselves on a magic carpet through the mundane.

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